[-] In my last post, I was writing about Massachusetts-based tea vendors, cafes, and tea houses. I just realized that I omitted a shop in my original post - Beth's Special Teas in Sandwich. I have now updated the article and also added the missing photos so you might want to check that out. (And I must confess that it was not a Blogger problem with adding photos...It was a Katrina problem. User error...) ANYWAY, back to business. In this post I wanted to highlight a few places I've been for afternoon tea.
* Boston: Swan's Cafe at
Boston Park Plaza Hotel is one of my special favorites. I think a big part of it is my support of the work that tea
sommelier Cynthia Gold has been doing. I've always had great experiences here and it brings back good memories.
*
Boxboro: As I mentioned, we said goodbye to the lovely Teapot Cafe in
Boxboro this year. This is a big loss. I felt like I'd be remiss if I didn't acknowledge it.
* Concord: A place often suggested is the
Colonial Inn in Concord. I've only been there for the "informal tea." It is a cozy place with a lovely feel, but I've often been disappointed by the tea itself - a box of not-very-good tea bags. I have heard that the by-reservation formal afternoon tea uses loose leaf. I haven't tried this yet. Have any of you?
*
Tyngsboro:
Left Bank Restaurant at
Stonehedge Inn in
Tyngsboro is about the only recommendation I have northwest of Boston right now. They offer a truly WONDERFUL afternoon tea. I've been several times and had great experiences.
*
Wenham:
Wenham Tea has a long history in the area and is a must-go for many afternoon tea lovers. Now called The Exchange at
Wenham Tea Company, this establishment is run by a lovely woman named Emma Roberts. She's been making some changes to modernize their offerings (and I'm sure she's facing some resistance in the process.) It's a beautiful spot and is certainly a place that would be enjoyed as much by your mom and grandmother as by you. Afternoon tea is offered Thursday through Saturday from 2:30 to 4:15. Lunch and breakfast is also served as well as a monthly children's tea with a storyteller/performer.
New review - Dunbar Tea Shop in SandwichDunbar House Tea Shop is one of those storied locations that I had dreamed about going. This converted carriage house dates back to the 1740s. The wood-paneled tea room used to be a billiards/ smoking room. There is a bright new addition with large windows, offering a second tea space, as well as a gift shop in the original building. Last autumn, when I was scouting the article for "Yankee Magazine," I knew that Dunbar would have to be on my planned tea tour. I mean, this place is listed in "The Great Tea Rooms of America." I had high hopes.
Unfortunately, my experience was not what I had hoped.
First, be aware that parking is quite limited, considering the number of tables at Dunbar. Nothing was available out front so I ran in to ask where else I could park. Not being from the area, I wanted to find out if parking in the road in front or at the building next door was legal. Sadly, when I said that the outside lot was full, the staff member I spoke with said, very rudely, "Well I don't know what to tell you." I took a deep breath and went and parked with fingers crossed. I went back in and stood at the entrance to the tea room for 10 minutes and was completely ignored. Finally someone offered to seat me and I decided to "let it go" and just enjoy my experience. I mean, this was DUNBAR! Finally!
As I mentioned previously, there are two rooms. The original, with its wood paneling, has a Colonial feel. It felt warm and steeped in history. The new room had soft beige walls, with a wall of windows overlooking the garden. The arched entrance ways added to the architectural detail. The cranberry tablecloths and high black chairs added warmth, and also a nod to its Cape Cod location. I admired the calm, serene colors and mood of the second room, but immediately noticed that sound simply bounces off the ceiling. It was incredibly loud compared to the quiet coziness of the original room.
I selected the Windsor Tea which came with sandwiches, scones, fruit bread, and desserts. They also offer an afternoon tea, a ploughman's lunch, and a selection of entrees, salads, and sandwiches.
The tea is NOT included in the price. You order that separately. I don't think I've ever seen that before in an "afternoon tea" menu. (It is hard to find out much from the website. The last menu posted was from 2006 and the last newsletter was from the same year. There isn't even a mention of the new addition so it doesn't seem that anyone actually updates the site.)
The tea was served in Brown Betty-style tea pots in quilted tea cozies. I was frustrated to find that my tea cozy was worn and stained. Again, deep breath. It wasn't THAT big a deal. I had chosen the "Courtship tea" which is a black tea and ginger blend that is made on the Cape. I found the flavor pretty muted. The leaves were put in the pot loose and a strainer was provided. I was annoyed to see how battered and out of shape the strainer was.
I finally accepted that this was going to be my experience. It wasn't that anything was exceptionally bad, but everything felt as if it was just a bit off. The food on the tiers was generally fine, but it kind of looked like it had been thrown at the tiers from across the kitchen. It just didn't feel like any care had been taken in plating. The hunk of watermelon and orange slice as the fresh fruit garnish seemed like a sad attempt. None of the flavors really shone. It was all just okay. The staff really didn't make much effort to engage with me at all. It felt very perfunctory. As a result, the $20 tab seemed much too high for what was served. (Yes, I've paid far, far more for good tea. But I've also paid less for good tea...And this wasn't really a good tea.)
The whole experience actually made me pretty angry. I can tell I was really angry because it is nearly five months after the fact and I'm still irritated. I kept looking around the room at all the people who had clearly planned a visit there for a special occasion. They were dressed up and looked excited about a really nice day. I was thinking that many people had probably saved up and had waited weeks for this Dunbar experience. And I felt like they were being taken advantage of. They were going to get a half-done experience and be charged at a premium price for the "honor" of sitting in this establishment. I knew that I would have many other amazing tea experiences. Some of these people wouldn't. For some of these visitors, this was going to be their "memorable tea experience." I worried about what they would actually remember.
I'm sure I've offended more than a few readers out there. In some ways I hope that enough of you have had such amazing experiences at Dunbar that you'll prove me wrong. I hope the comments I receive will make me want to get in my car and give it another try. Any establishment can have an off day. Please let me know if my impressions don't meet your experiences. And if you haven't yet gone, don't be shy. Just make sure you demand good service and a good experience (and no stained or damaged
teaware!)
End reviewNOW, all that being said, I want to give one other tea tip. I've written about this place before. If you ever have the opportunity, make an appointment to visit the
House of Flower Wind/Kaji Aso Studio. It is a wonderfully unique experience. The studio offers weekly Japanese tea ceremonies (by appointment) in a tea house that was installed in the basement of this downtown brownstone. This was one of my most memorable tea experiences to date. I have been planning my return ever since.
Where to go next?As I started compiling my "next" list, I was stunned by how large it is. There are so many tea spots in the state that I haven't yet explored. Maybe in 2010 I need to stay local and see what I can find. Some of the places on my list are:
Hotels: The
Taj (Boston - the old Ritz), Mandarin Oriental (Boston - newly opened), Four Seasons (Boston)
Restaurants: Upstairs on the Square (Cambridge)
Tea shops: Hallowed Herbs (Quincy), Windsor Tea (
Cohasset), Special Teas (
Northborough), Leah Mae's Tea House (
Haverhill), Dorset Tea & Coffee (
Wellesley), and
Mullens Herbal Tea House (Barre)
I hope I can find some friends to join me! It looks like some fun upcoming adventures. Now I just need to keep writing to finance my tea travels. ;)
Tea in Massachusetts, Part 2 - http://teapages.blogspot.com/feeds/3922247033134618982/comments/default
